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All tourists visiting Guernsey must visit Sark, the crown jewel of the Channel Islands. Spending a day on Sark feels like you have stepped back in time, as it has unpaved roads and no traffic other than a few tractors, bicycles and horse drawn carriages. The first thing you will feel is total peace and silence, with only the chirping of birds, the rustling of leaves and the gentle lapping of waves. Completely free from pollution, the air is also surprisingly fresh.
getting there:
The Isle of Sark Shipping Company operates a ferry service year-round between Guernsey and Sark. I highly recommend spending a full day on the island by taking the 10.15am ferry from Guernsey Harbour. Located 8 miles from Guernsey, the journey takes about 55 minutes. Passengers can sit in the saloon or go out on the sun deck if the weather is good. Ferry booking details
On the way, the boat passes the neighbouring islands of Herm and Jethou. Look for wildlife including puffins, dolphins and cormorants on the rocky cliffs.
getting around:
When you arrive at Madeline Harbour on Sark, go through the Archway Tunnel which leads to the bottom of Harbour Hill. From there, you can either climb the steep hill to the small village centre or ride up the hill on the island’s tractor bus, known locally as the ‘Toast Rack’, an experience not to be missed. Single fare £1.50 (cash only).
The island is small in size, measuring 3 x 0.5 miles and is easy to explore on foot or bicycle. Bicycles and e-bikes can be hired from the village centre and with no traffic this is an ideal way to get around.
Take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the narrow streets for a trip down memory lane. Sit back and enjoy the beautiful scenery while the driver shows you interesting sights and gives you interesting tidbits about island life. The carriage can seat up to six people, so you can share the ride with other visitors if you wish, making the ride more affordable.
SAARC Visitor Centre
I recommend starting by going to the visitor center where you can get a map of the island and a self-guided walking leaflet before setting off on your adventure on the island. The staff are very welcoming and willing to answer any questions you may have.
SAARC Museum
Next to the visitor center is the island’s small museum. It’s free to visit and houses a collection of cultural and heritage memorabilia, a section of which discusses how the island coped during World War II and the German occupation.
Sark Jail
Next to the tourist information building is Sark Prison. This small, barrel-roofed two-cell prison was built in 1856 and is one of the smallest prisons in the world still in use today. Judicial powers allow a prisoner to be held for a maximum of two days and if the crime is so serious that it requires more punishment the offender will be taken by boat to the larger prison in Guernsey.
Walking
The island is a walker’s paradise, as the roads are free of traffic and there is natural beauty around every turn. Follow the endless trails along the leafy lanes that lead up to paths built over the cliffs, with spectacular views of the crystal clear waters below.
La Coupe
A high ridge causeway which is only 3 metres wide connects the main island to Little Sark – a peninsula which forms the southern part of the island. Below La Coupe is the stunning La Grande Grave beach. It takes about 25 minutes to walk from the village centre to La Coupe, so it’s a good idea to get there first. The beautiful causeway is definitely one of the ‘must see’ places on the island. Please note that if you go there by bicycle or horse and cart you will have to cover the last part on foot.
Beaches
Enjoy the sun on Caribbean-like beaches with white sand and sparkling blue seas. Spend time exploring rock pools at low tide.
Caragh Chocolates
In an idyllic location just off La Coupee, enjoy tea and cake in the café or in the gardens. Visitors can watch chocolate being made and visit the shop to buy some sweet treats to take home.
SAARC Gold Post Box
There is only one post box on the island and it is very special as it is painted gold. To celebrate the success of the British gold medal winners at the London 2012 Olympic Games it was decided to paint a post box gold in each winner’s home town. Carl Hester from Sark won gold in the Olympic dressage and the commemorative post box can be seen on the main road to the island.
SAARC Dairy
Visit the purpose-built dairy and farm built on the island, where you can climb to the viewing platform to watch the live milking process. There is also a self-service milk vending machine and milkshake station on the lower level. Admission is free.
La Seigneurie Garden
Set in the grounds of a 17th-century manor house, home to the Seigneury of Sark since 1730. This RHS recommended garden is considered one of the finest in the Channel Islands. Explore the various gardens, the chapel and find your way out of the labyrinth. The beautiful walled gardens are filled with delicate flowers and shrubs that in other parts of the British Isles would only survive under glass. La Seigneurie Garden
Enjoy a Leisurely Lunch
Surprisingly there are many restaurants, pubs and cafes around the island to enjoy lunch or afternoon tea. The Hathaways which is located next to La Seigneurie Gardens and has a lovely outdoor terrace.
There’s a wide variety of dishes available including crab salad sandwiches, burgers steaks and more, and there’s also a lovely indoor dining area along the rooftop.
window in the rock
Window in the Rock is a 15-minute walk from La Seigneurie Gardens and is a particularly photogenic spot on the island’s west coast. A square hole has been carved into the rock face that frames the stunning view, with a sheer slope and dramatic cliff views on the other side. Nearby, stroll up a flight of stone steps to the stunning Port du Moulin beach below.
shopping Along the Avenue
There are numerous small shops and cafes along either side of the avenue, many of which sell local handicraft items, such as ‘Cirque Threads’, a weaving studio where you can watch the looms producing hand-woven shawls, scarves and home accessories.
Old Island Hall
The hall was used for village meetings during the occupation and was from where the islanders listened to Winston Churchill’s radio broadcast in which he announced that the war was over. The hall now houses an exhibition depicting life during the war years and up to the present day. Through documents and photographs the exhibition tells the story of the people who were on Sark during the Second World War, enduring deportation and hardship but still living their lives as best they could. (Admission free).
Churches
There are two churches on the island, St Peter’s Anglican and a small Methodist church. There has been a church on the island since the time of the first seigneur. St Peter’s has been in its present state since 1821, with a chancel added in 1877 and a steeple built in 1883 to give Sark access to the clock. Both churches are open to visit with their traditional oak pews and tapestry embroidered kneelers and cushions.
gaze at the stars
Sark’s 600 residents protect the island from light pollution and the lack of street lighting makes the sky full of stars at night. In 2011, Sark was named the world’s first Dark Sky Island. Visitors who stay overnight can experience some of the best conditions for stargazing in the British Isles. If you plan to stay overnight, don’t forget to pack a flashlight to help you find your way after dark.
With accommodation available ranging from hotels to self-catering cottages and campsites you may want to stay longer. Clearly labelled luggage is carried by trailer tractor straight from the boat to the accommodation so you don’t have to handle it yourself. After visiting for a day, I would definitely want to experience an overnight stay on Sark next time.
Rather than taking the ‘Toast Rack’ tractor bus back to the port at the end of the day, we opted to walk as there is a path through the forest that runs parallel to the dirt road. It is quite steep but much easier to walk down than up.
I hope you have found this Sark travel guide useful, as as well as a visit to Herm it provides the opportunity for a lovely island hopping holiday in Guernsey.
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During our visit we were guests of Visit Guernsey And as always, all thoughts and opinions are entirely my own.
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